Monday, 25 October 2010
Coastwalk , South West Coast Path
Coverack → Helford Passage
Distance: 11.5 miles
Ascent: 466 metres
Duration: 4 hours 28 minutes
Halfway round
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Timing was of the essence today with two rivers to cross.
Gillan Creek has no ferry, but can be crossed on foot at low water. Most online descriptions of the route explain that the stepping stones are incredibly slippery and wading is best. What they don't make clear is that there are two river channels to cross, so that the triumphant feeling after conquering the first set of stones is soon lost when the second comes into view. Perhaps the best option is to try crossing the stones barefoot - at least that way slipping off will be a refreshing surprise rather than a disaster.
The walk ends with a crossing of the Helford River by a seasonal ferry. Unconvinced we would cover the required distance before the last boat of the day we used the GPS receiver to help us maintain a good pace that would hit the ferry.
We didn't let the pace stop us enjoying the sights on the path, for example the abandoned Dean gabbro quarries.
At Porthallow we stopped to look at a new monolith-like sculpture "Fading Voices" on the edge of the beach. Perhaps because of pace, we didn't realise that this is the new halfway marker that has been erected to help walkers celebrate being equidistant from both ends of the South West Coast Path. We knew that we'd encounter such a monument today, but its significance with respect to the path is inscribed on the seaward side while the path runs on the landward side. It's a shame we didn't notice; despite walking the SWCP in almost random order we too have covered about half of the distance (320 miles so far).