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Elan and Ystwyth

Driving from Suffolk to Aberystwyth I always used to take the A44 across the Cambrian mountains. On recent trips though we've found a new favourite route, up the Elan valley and down the Ystwyth. From Rhayader take the B4518 east to Elan Village, then follow signs to Aberystwyth with their red "Mountain Road" warning label.

The Elan valley is home to a chain of huge reservoirs which supply drinking water to Birmingham. The lakes are always spectacular, never more so than when the level is high enough for vast quantities of water to thunder over the lowest dam at Caban Coch.

Beyond the summit of the pass, Cwm Ystwyth is a different affair: a narrow, steep-sided valley dotted with old mine buildings. I imagine my grandfather here as he wrote the Valley of Vision prayer. It's a stunning welcome back to Ceredigion.