Coastwalk

Porthcawl → Wick

Distance: 12.4 miles
Ascent: 569 metres
Duration: 4 hours 24 minutes

The tranquil garden
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When I set off this morning I had no idea where I'd finish the walk. Three uncertainties gave rise to this: the weather, a long stretch of sand dunes, and where to cross the Afon Ogwr.

Beyond the caravan parks on the east side of Porthcawl, the Merthyr Mawr Warren dune system extends to the Afon Ogwr. The high tide stopped me from walking along the sea-front so I set out through the dune system. Walking through dunes can be very disconcerting. The map reveals absolutely no detail for the area, yet all around you are ten, twenty metre high hills and a network of paths. The trick is to gain high ground and look to the horizon for a landmark to walk towards. That said, a tangle of sand and grass doesn't make easy progress.

I was thwarted by the next obstacle - crossing the Ogmore. A combination of the tide and the volume of water running off the hills into the river conspired to hide the stepping stones beside Ogmore Castle. By the time I eventually reached the other bank, that final hindrance was in full swing. Contrary to my thoughts, the bad weather had not passed overnight - very quickly I was soaked.

All this hassle vanished though in the surprising delight of Dunraven Park. Looking at the map now I can see the walled garden, but until I opened the gate I'd not known of it. The Victorian Walled garden was the final transformation of these few days. It took a wet, tired walker and blessed him with tranquility.

Ask me in a week's time what the enduring memory of the walk was and I'll have forgotten all about the dunes, the river and the rain. It will all be about the garden.